I was going for a great neighborhood spot. JL was conceived through everything that inspired me in New York and around the world. I wanted a place that could be your all day, everyday place, which to me, means that it needs to be free of pretention. It canโt be too formal and it canโt be too casual โ often that can veer toward fast food, and thatโs not the type of place you want to hang at. All in all, I was going for a great American bistro.
What is something in all of your restaurants that has โGabe Stulmanโ written all over it?
At night, the music. Thereโs a lot of hip-hop playing, and thatโs something that I like. Another thing, my staff doesnโt wear uniforms.
We can always count on Jeffreyโs and Joseph Leonard for some Jay Z or Kanye. Who chooses the music?
Everyone. Everyone gets to play their own music. There are just some guidelines. Certain music I just donโt think is good to eat food to. Techno, house music, jungle, heavy metal, ACDC โ itโs all good music, I just donโt think I would eat halibut to it.
I love me some Nina Simone, I love me some Miles Davis, but I do not think it has a place in the restaurant after 5 pm. I love hip-hop, but we better not play Rick Ross or 2 Live Crew. Iโm okay with curse words, but Iโm not okay with nasty, filthy lyrics. If your vocabulary only consists of four letter words describing what you pretend to do to girls, Iโm not into it. I mean, letโs be real, you didnโt have sex with 8 girls before your show. You just didnโt.
Jay Z or Kanye?
Kanye. Itโs a controversial answer, but it is a fact that Kanye is the better all around artist because he has the ability to produce his own songs and rap to them. Kanye is responsible for a lot of Jay Zโs hits. Kanye has produced many of Jayโs number one singles. It is without any argument that Kanye West has launched and exploded peoplesโ careers. For instance, Alicia keys. Her first Grammy โI donโt know your name.โ Kanye West produced that. John Legendโs first album was entirely produced by Kanye. Lupe Fiasco, Kid Cudi, Nicki Minaj - she wasnโt on anybodyโs shit โtill she was on Kanyeโs album. Bon Iver got put on Kanye and now heโs got millions of fans. Mr. Hudson โ same deal. He was a little known artist in the UK, and then got featured on Kanye. The Clipse, same thing. Did Madonna ask Jay Z to produce a trackโฆ or did she ask Kanye? Did Pharrell ask Jay Z to produce a trackโฆ or did he ask Kanye? Itโs just quantitative at this point.
You're hosting dinner at one of your restaurants. Who are you inviting dead or alive? Where are you taking them?
My wife, Lebron James, Wes Anderson, Mos Def, Rene Magritte and Muhammad Ali. Iโd do it at home.
You have the coolest staff. What's a go-to interview question for new hires?
โWhy are you leaving the place that you are at?โ Thatโs a very important question and it offers a lot of insight to the character of a person. If they talk shit or they donโt have an articulate answer, itโs not a good quality. There are really a lot of silent indicators that are telling. For example, punctuality. It will amaze you how many people show up late to an interview. If you canโt be on time when youโre trying to get the job, what kind of impression does that make? You can fill in your own answer.
Food motto to live by?
Under promise, over deliver. Itโs more of a service motto.
One ingredient you canโt live without?
Salt.
Any food you wonโt touch?
Nettles. Itโs a leafy green that Iโm allergic to.
What's the best advice anyone has ever given you?
My Uncle Claude told me to never ask a girl about her past relationships because you have nothing to gain through that knowledge. If you go digging through the dumpster, donโt be surprised if you find trash. If you ask a girl how many guys sheโs been in love with and she says youโre the only one, you wonโt believe her. If she says twenty guys, you wont like the answer. It shouldnโt matter. All that matters is that you love each other.
If your son wanted to enter the restaurant business, what advice would you give him?
My advice would be two-part. First, make fucking decisions. Second, be comfortable with failing. Itโs part of the process. Donโt be scared to make decisions even if you are alone. Persevere.
Whatโs the first thing you notice when you walk into a restaurant thatโs not your own?
Thereโs not one thing. I digest 100 things at once. Lighting, music, design. I process that before the doors open. Next, the greeting. I notice the warmth and kindness of the place.
Is nutrition something that you consider when developing a menu?
Yes. It doesnโt guide or drive the ethos of a dish, though I donโt want to create a menu thatโs all foie gras and maple syrup and short ribs. Iโm not passionate about eating raw or vegan. I know there are ways that our menu could be healthier, but I like butter and I like saltโฆ like, to the level of buoyancy. I think itโs important to have a balanced set of options.
Whatโs the hottest food trend right now?
Everybodyโs trying to build the next Shake Shack. Everyone is trying to do whatโs called โfast casual.โ There are a lot of people chasing an IPO.
Another thing: everybody now wants to create vegetable-focused menus. And come up with some bullshit reason as to why they want to do it. Letโs be real, the concern isnโt really sustainability, but vegetables are popular right now. Itโs true that dining habits are adjusting and people are becoming more aware of food choices. The reality is that if you donโt (add more vegetables) you will lose diners.
What NYC restaurants do you love right now?
Reynard in the Wythe hotel. Andrew Tarlow is a good friend of mine and has a fantastic restaurant. Will Guidara, the guy behind the NoMad and Eleven Madison Park, he knows hospitality and has amazing food. I also love Marta. Danny Meyer, Nick Anderer and Terry Coughlin crush it.
As new kids on the block, any advice you can leave us with?
I would tell you the same thing that I would tell my son. Also, find out what your purpose is. Why you are doing something is different than what you are doing. Once you figure out your purpose, you need to have a combination of conviction toward your purpose, and malleability to modify things, to an extent. For instance, I could probably open a taco joint right now, and it might be pretty successful. But I donโt want to open a taco joint. Thereโs a thin line between curbing your purpose toward something that will be successful and not letting it get so far away that you will have no ties to its meaning.